Anthony Vaccarello kiest voor 80s YSL invloeden tijdens Saint Laurent


Anthony Vaccarello kiest voor 80s YSL invloeden tijdens Saint Laurent

Suzy Menkes
Saint Laurent - Herfst/Winter 2017 - InDigital

Leather mounded into a shoulder piece set at an angle or another draped leather dress with one shoulder opening to reveal the inside of a shearling sleeve – everything screamed about the 1980s at the Saint Laurent show.

Saint Laurent - Herfst/Winter 2017 - InDigital

The only small change over 30 years seemed to be the boots in squishy leather that sent them in rivulets from knee to sole.

Saint Laurent - Herfst/Winter 2017 - InDigital

This Amazonian sexiness from designer Anthony Vaccarello, in his second round at the house, did not include a stand off with soft dresses and droopy cardigans, as seen in Hedi Slimane's tenure, that ended in 2016.  Although there was slushy velvet and malleable leather as a contrast to the aggressive sculpturing that fitted with Slimane's final angry show in 2016.

Saint Laurent - Herfst/Winter 2017 - InDigital

We were sitting (although I was actually sheltering under an umbrella in the rain) in the bones of a triumphant new building for the brand. Its steel bones were the background to a show where the spirit could not get much harder. If anything, the men's collection, shown as a centre piece, was slightly more gentle.

Saint Laurent - Herfst/Winter 2017 - InDigital

A final orgy of Swarovski crystals added royal blue to the black, white and silver round up.

As an ode to the 1980s and to a narrow slither of the broad YSL legacy, it was not a bad show. In terms of keeping on side the edgy rock ‘n’ roll generation who don't know the history of Monsieur Saint Laurent, Vacarello followed smartly in the stomping footsteps of Hedi's angry kids brigade, but now tramping in high heels.

But where was the French connection? Yves Saint Laurent was the essence of francophilia. Although himself an outsider from the Maghreb region, he embraced – and reformed – French elegance in a youthful way.

Saint Laurent - Herfst/Winter 2017 - InDigital

Vacarello, born in Belgium to Italian parents, is having none of that bourgeois perfection. He is part of a current quasi-feminist push for deliberate vulgarity. In fact, the line up of models, dressed in their ultra-sexy clothes as if parading to the I’m Too Sexy chant from Right Said Fred in 1991, was a reminder of Christophe Decarnin at Balmain in 2005. That was the beginning of this in-your-face sexiness for the new millennium.

But vulgarity is surely not the perfect fit for Saint Laurent. Time for Vacarello to move his considerable cutting and draping talent out of the dark and into the daylight hours.

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