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Suzy Menkes over Michael Kors

fashion

Suzy Menkes over Michael Kors

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Suzy Menkes
Indigital, Instagram Suzy Menkes

Exactly one week since New York Fashion Week opened on a lawn in Roosevelt Island with a complex show of nothing very much from Kanye West, the city's fashion pros have finally taken over.

'I'm still old school - the idea that clothes should put you in a better mood - I am an optimist at heart,' said Michael Kors as he took his bow while the audience was still cheering both the colourful, wearable collection and singer-songwriter Rufus Wainwright singing Come On, Get Happy.

Zing! went the string of fashion hearts as the Kors clothes - jacquard florals, fresh white dresses or even shorts and tops swimsuits - walked a runway set in squares so that everyone, from Chinese film star Yang Mi to Michael's mother Joan Hamburger, seemed to have a front row vantage point.

Cashmere sweater met LOVE van Michael Kors.

Should we consider this Kors show - with its corny idea of intarsia stitching of LOVE on a cashmere sweater - as a little simplistic? It may be so when compared to the elaboration at big design houses, especially in Europe. But I think there is real merit in keeping things apparently simple.

Of course, behind this parade of easy summer dresses, well-tailored jackets and streamlined accessories, is a depth of workmanship.

Whether it is stretch satin jersey for a floral dress or a silk georgette skirt, the fabrics and the shapes all start at ground zero - they are made from scratch by the designer. Giant daisies against a grass green and sea blue just look simple.

Bruine co-ord met daisies van Michael Kors.

The big ease is the essence of American fashion. But it does not have to mean the basic t-shirts and shorts as seen on sidewalks in this hot September. Kors works every intarsia cotton pullover, every chambray or silk georgette bias dress to make women's clothes - and a scattering of men's seen on the runway - seem so easy.

They have also become quintessentially Kors, as other established New York designers fade away or pass away, leaving him a lone figure.

I asked Yang Mi why she liked Michael Kors; 'simple, easy to wear, nice colours, good handbags' was her reply. Maybe other designers should remember that most women - even movie stars - want clothes that look good, feel good and work for them as individuals.

I thought about Rufus Wainwright and how many years he must have put in his career to be able to sing with such such apparent ease. I guess the same goes for Kors.

Suzy Menkes
Suzy Menkes

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